Note: To better synchronize the downtime in the cake and frosting recipes, make the cream cheese frosting before the cake. While it’s cooling, adjust oven rack to the lower-middle position and preheat to 350°F.

1. Line three 8-by-3-inch anodized aluminum cake pans with parchment and grease with pan spray. (If you don’t have three pans, the remaining batter can be held at room temperature for up to 3 hours.)

2. Sift flour and cocoa (if using cup measures, spoon into the cups and level with a knife before sifting); set aside.

3. Combine butter, brown sugar, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and vanilla extract in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on low speed to moisten, then increase to medium and cream until fluffy and light, about 5 minutes, pausing to scrape the bowl and beater halfway through. With the mixer running, add the eggs one at a time, mixing until each is fully incorporated before adding the next.

4. Reduce speed to low and sprinkle in one-third of the flour/cocoa, followed by a third of the red wine. Alternate between the two, allowing each addition to be roughly incorporated before adding the next. Fold batter with a flexible spatula to ensure it’s well mixed from the bottom up. Divide among the prepared cake pans (about 22 ounces each).

5. Bake until the cakes are domed and firm when gently pressed, about 30 minutes. A toothpick inserted into the center will emerge with a few crumbs still attached. Cool until no trace of warmth remains (the domes will level off in time), about 90 minutes.

6. Loosen the cakes from their pans with a knife, invert onto a wire rack, peel off the parchment, and reinvert.

7. Crumb-coat and frost the cake with the cream cheese frosting. Slide a dozen 2-inch-wide strips of wax paper under the bottom edge of the cake to shield the plate. Shave the white chocolate with a coarse-bladed Microplane and use a spoon to sprinkle white chocolate over the top and sides of the cake. When fully covered, scatter the cocoa nibs on top to mimic ermine “spots”: If you take a step back and fling the nibs like you would a Frisbee, they’ll stick to the sides in a random yet natural pattern (spoiler alert: It’s really, really fun).

8. Under a cake dome or an inverted pot, the frosted cake will keep for up to 24 hours at room temperature. After cutting, wrap leftover slices individually and store at room temperature for up to 3 days more.

Storing: Cake scraps make a tasty snack, and an even tastier ice cream. Freeze for up to 6 months in a quart zip-top bag.

MIX IT UP!

Buttermilk Chocolate: This downy-soft cake is analogous to the “red devil” so popular in the 1920s, with a comforting cocoa flavor mellowed by the addition of dairy. Replace red wine with an equal amount of cultured low-fat buttermilk, brought to cool room temperature, about 65°F.

Cranberry Velvet: For those who abstain, replace the red wine with an equal amount of pure, unsweetened cranberry juice—not cranberry cocktail!

Red (Wine) Velvet Cupcakes: Line cupcake pans with papers. Fill each with 1¾ ounces of batter, about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center emerges with only a few crumbs attached. Makes about 40 cupcakes.

Gluten-Free: Replace the all-purpose flour with 4 ounces (1 cup) teff flour, 4 ounces (1 cup) tapioca flour or arrowroot, 2 ounces (½ cup) coconut flour, and 2 ounces (½ cup) white rice flour.

Recipe and photo from BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts by Stella Parks. Copyright © 2017 by Stella Parks. Reprinted with permission of W.W. Norton & Company, Inc. All rights reserved